What is the very first thing to do?

Shut off the water at the main valve if you can reach it safely. Nothing else reduces the damage as much. Then keep people away from any water that is near electrical equipment and call a licensed plumber.

Can I just close the valve for that one fixture?

Only if the burst is clearly downstream of that valve. If you're not sure, shut off the main — it's faster than working it out while water is running.

The pipe froze but nothing is leaking yet. Am I in the clear?

Not necessarily. A frozen section can already be split and only release water once it thaws and pressure returns. Have it inspected rather than assuming it survived.

Pipes

Burst Pipe: Immediate Steps and What Happens Next

A pipe has failed and is releasing water quickly. This is the situation where shutting off the water main matters most.

A homeowner guide — what may be happening, and what to do next.

If this is an emergency

Uncontrolled water, sewage entering the home, a suspected gas leak, or water near electrical equipment all need immediate action. Shut off the water at the main if it is safe to reach, keep everyone away from hazards, and contact your local emergency services, your utility provider, or a licensed professional as appropriate.

What's happening?

A burst pipe is a structural failure of the pipe wall — a split, a blown joint, or a section that has separated. Because supply piping is always pressurized, water keeps coming until someone closes a valve upstream. The volume can be substantial within minutes.

Freezing is the best-known cause, but bursts also follow corrosion, water hammer, excessive pressure, and physical damage. In many freeze cases the split happens where the pipe froze, and the water only appears once the ice thaws.

Common signs

Symptoms homeowners notice

Water coming through a ceiling, wall, or floor, or pouring visibly from a pipe
A sudden and dramatic drop in water pressure throughout the home
A loud bang or knock followed by the sound of running water
Water appearing from under a cabinet, a crawlspace, or the base of a wall
In winter: no water at a fixture, then water appearing elsewhere as things thaw

Possible causes

From simple to more serious — not a diagnosis of your specific situation

Freezing: Water expands as it freezes, and the pressure it creates splits the pipe wall.
Corrosion and age: Older piping thins from the inside until a weak point fails suddenly.
Excessive water pressure: Pressure above the normal residential range, or a failed pressure-reducing valve, stresses the whole system.
Water hammer: Repeated pressure shock from fast-closing valves and appliances loosens and fatigues joints.
Physical damage: Impact, ground movement, or a fastener driven through a concealed pipe.

How urgent is it?

Emergency — act now on safety

Treat uncontrolled water inside a home as an emergency. Shut off the water supply if you can do so safely, then get professional help.

Low
Medium
High
Emergency

What you can safely check

Simple observations and low-risk checks. None of these require tools you don't have or work you aren't qualified for.

Shut off the main water supply if you can reach the valve safely and without crossing standing water near electrical equipment.
Move people, pets, and valuables away from the water and from anything electrical.
If water is near an electrical panel, outlets, or appliances, stay out of it and treat the area as hazardous.
Open a low faucet after shutting off the main to relieve pressure and let lines drain.
Photograph the damage before anything is moved or cleaned up.
Contact a licensed plumber; if the water threatens the structure or involves electrical hazards, contact your local emergency services or utility as appropriate.

What not to do

These are the actions that turn a manageable problem into an expensive or dangerous one.

Avoid these

Don't stand or wade in water that is near electrical panels, outlets, or plugged-in equipment.
Don't attempt a permanent repair on a pressurized line yourself.
Don't apply heat with an open flame, torch, or heat gun to a frozen or failed pipe — this causes fires and can rupture the pipe further.
Don't turn the water back on to check whether the problem has resolved.
Don't wait to see if it drains on its own. Every additional hour wet expands the remediation work.

Can I fix this myself?

Safe to check

Observation and low-risk checks most homeowners can make.

Shutting off the main water valve when it is safe to reach
Moving belongings out of the water
Documenting damage with photos
Opening a low faucet to drain the system after shutting off

Proceed with caution

Minor actions where instructions must be followed carefully.

Using towels, buckets, or a wet vacuum on clean water well away from electrical equipment

Call a professional

Regulated, hazardous, or specialized work. Don't attempt it.

All burst pipe repair and replacement
Thawing frozen pipes
Any work where water has reached electrical or gas equipment
Assessing whether the rest of the system needs replacement

When to call a licensed plumber

Clear signals it's time for professional help

Immediately — a burst pipe needs a licensed plumber the same day
Right away if you can't find or turn your shut-off valve
Urgently if water has reached electrical equipment, a furnace, or a gas appliance
Also contact a water damage restoration service if flooring, drywall, or insulation is saturated

Not sure yet? Read our general guidance on when a plumber is needed.

Questions to ask your plumber

Worth covering before you authorize any work.

Before work starts

1Is this an isolated failure, or does the rest of the piping look likely to fail too?
2Do you recommend repairing this section or replacing the run, and why?
3What caused it — freezing, corrosion, or pressure? What prevents a repeat?
4Do I need a separate restoration company for the drying and finishes?
5Are you licensed to do this type of work in my area, and can I see your license number?
6Do you carry liability insurance and workers' compensation?
7Will you provide a written estimate before starting work?
8Is a diagnostic or trip fee charged, and is it applied to the repair if I go ahead?
9Does this work require a permit or an inspection?
10What warranty applies to the labor, and what warranty applies to the parts?

What could affect the cost?

We don't publish prices, because real quotes depend on your home, your area, and what's found on site. These are the variables that move the number.

Cost drivers

Location of the failure: An exposed basement pipe is straightforward; one under a slab or in a finished ceiling is not.
Emergency response: After-hours, weekend, and holiday calls carry premium rates.
Repair vs. replacement: If the pipe failed because of age or corrosion, replacing a longer run is often the sounder decision.
Water damage scope: Drying, mold prevention, and rebuilding finishes typically exceed the plumbing cost.
Opening and closing walls: Access work and its repair are often billed separately from the plumbing.

More detail on how plumbing work is priced: Plumbing costs — what to expect.

Common questions

What is the very first thing to do?: Shut off the water at the main valve if you can reach it safely. Nothing else reduces the damage as much. Then keep people away from any water that is near electrical equipment and call a licensed plumber.
Can I just close the valve for that one fixture?: Only if the burst is clearly downstream of that valve. If you're not sure, shut off the main — it's faster than working it out while water is running.
The pipe froze but nothing is leaking yet. Am I in the clear?: Not necessarily. A frozen section can already be split and only release water once it thaws and pressure returns. Have it inspected rather than assuming it survived.

This guide is general educational information, not a diagnosis of your specific situation. Plumbing codes, regulations, and licensing requirements vary by state and locality.