Hot water runs out after five minutes. Is the heater broken?

Not necessarily. Rapid loss of hot water often comes from sediment reducing usable capacity, a broken dip tube, a failed lower element on an electric unit, or a heater that's simply too small for current demand. A plumber can tell which.

Should I turn the temperature up?

Be careful. Higher settings cause scald injuries quickly, especially for children and older adults. Stay within the manufacturer's recommendation and address the underlying cause instead.

How long does a water heater last?

It varies with water quality, maintenance, and type. Once a storage unit reaches the later part of its expected life and needs a significant repair, replacement is often the better value — ask for both prices.

There's a little water under the heater. Can it wait?

Don't wait. A weeping tank can become a full failure, and tanks hold a lot of water. Have it assessed promptly.

Water Heaters

No Hot Water: Working Out What's Wrong

No hot water at all, not enough, or it runs out quickly. The pattern points toward the cause.

A homeowner guide — what may be happening, and what to do next.

What's happening?

A storage water heater keeps a tank of heated water ready. Gas models burn fuel under the tank; electric models use heating elements inside it. Tankless units heat on demand instead of storing. Each design fails in a different way.

The pattern of the failure is the most useful clue. No hot water at all often means a heat source has stopped — a pilot or ignition problem, a failed element, a tripped breaker, or a safety device that has shut things down. Hot water that runs out too fast usually means capacity or sediment, or a dip tube issue. Lukewarm water points to a thermostat setting, one failed element of two, or a mixing valve. Sudden and complete loss with water pooling around the heater is a different situation and needs prompt professional attention.

Common signs

Symptoms homeowners notice

No hot water at any fixture
Hot water that lasts a few minutes then turns cold
Water that only ever gets lukewarm
Rumbling, popping, or crackling from the tank
Rusty or discolored hot water, or a metallic smell
Water on the floor around the heater or in its drain pan
The pilot light is out on a gas model, or the breaker has tripped on an electric one

Possible causes

From simple to more serious — not a diagnosis of your specific situation

Pilot light or ignition failure (gas): A gas heater that has lost its flame won't heat. Repeated pilot outages often indicate a failing thermocouple or gas valve.
Tripped breaker or failed element (electric): Electric heaters typically have two elements; one failing gives lukewarm or short-lived hot water.
Thermostat problem: A miscalibrated or failed thermostat, or a setting that was changed.
Sediment buildup: Minerals settle at the bottom of the tank, reducing capacity and causing rumbling noises.
A tripped safety device: A high-limit cutout trips for a reason; resetting it without finding out why is not a fix.
A broken dip tube: Incoming cold water mixes with the hot at the top of the tank, so hot water runs out quickly.
Undersized for the household: If demand has grown, the heater may simply be too small — a capacity issue rather than a fault.
End of service life: Storage heaters have a finite life. An old tank that's failing is usually a replacement conversation.

How urgent is it?

Medium — schedule professional service

Uncomfortable but usually not hazardous — unless you smell gas, see a significant leak, or the heater is making unusual noises. Those need immediate attention.

Low
Medium
High
Emergency

What you can safely check

Simple observations and low-risk checks. None of these require tools you don't have or work you aren't qualified for.

Check whether it's every fixture or just one — one fixture suggests a faucet or valve issue, not the heater.
On an electric heater, check whether the breaker has tripped. If it trips again, stop and call a professional.
Read the temperature setting on the heater without changing it.
Look at the floor around the heater and inside the drain pan for water or rust.
Listen for rumbling or popping, and note the sound to describe it.
Find the age of the unit from the label or serial number — it shapes the repair-versus-replace decision.
Locate the cold water shut-off above the heater and, on a gas unit, the gas shut-off valve.

What not to do

These are the actions that turn a manageable problem into an expensive or dangerous one.

Avoid these

If you smell gas: don't operate switches or flames, leave the building, and call your gas utility's emergency line or emergency services from outside. Don't try to relight anything.
Don't repeatedly reset a tripped breaker or high-limit switch. They trip to prevent a hazard, and repeated resets can lead to fire or scalding.
Don't raise the thermostat above the manufacturer's recommendation. Excessive temperatures cause serious scald injuries, particularly to children and older adults.
Don't touch the temperature and pressure relief (T&P) valve, and never cap, plug, or block it. It is the tank's primary safety device.
Don't attempt gas line, gas valve, burner, venting, or combustion work yourself. This is licensed work in most places for good reason — carbon monoxide and fire risk.
Don't drain a hot tank or work on electrical elements without shutting off power and following proper procedure; burns and electric shock are real risks here.

Can I fix this myself?

Safe to check

Observation and low-risk checks most homeowners can make.

Confirming whether all fixtures are affected
Checking whether the breaker has tripped
Reading the temperature setting and unit age
Looking for leaks in the pan and listening for unusual noises
Locating the water and gas shut-off valves

Proceed with caution

Minor actions where instructions must be followed carefully.

Shutting off water or gas to the heater in a suspected emergency, if the valves are accessible and you know which they are
Relighting a standing pilot strictly per the manufacturer's printed instructions — and stopping if it won't stay lit or you smell gas

Call a professional

Regulated, hazardous, or specialized work. Don't attempt it.

All gas burner, gas valve, venting, and combustion work
Electrical element and thermostat replacement
Draining and flushing a tank
T&P valve service
Water heater replacement and code compliance

When to call a licensed plumber

Clear signals it's time for professional help

There's no hot water and you haven't found a tripped breaker or an obvious cause
Water is leaking from the tank or collecting in the pan
A gas pilot won't stay lit, or you smell gas at any point
The breaker trips again after being reset
The tank rumbles, water is discolored, or the heater is more than about ten years old
The T&P valve is discharging water

Not sure yet? Read our general guidance on when a plumber is needed.

Questions to ask your plumber

Worth covering before you authorize any work.

Before work starts

1Is this worth repairing, or has the unit reached the point where replacement is the better value?
2What size and type would suit my household's actual hot water use?
3Does replacement require a permit or venting changes in my area?
4Is an expansion tank, pan, drain, or seismic strapping required by local code here?
5What's the warranty on the tank, on the parts, and on your labor?
6Are you licensed to do this type of work in my area, and can I see your license number?
7Do you carry liability insurance and workers' compensation?
8Will you provide a written estimate before starting work?
9Is a diagnostic or trip fee charged, and is it applied to the repair if I go ahead?
10Does this work require a permit or an inspection?
11What warranty applies to the labor, and what warranty applies to the parts?

What could affect the cost?

We don't publish prices, because real quotes depend on your home, your area, and what's found on site. These are the variables that move the number.

Cost drivers

Repair vs. replacement: A thermocouple or element is a modest repair; a new heater with permits and code upgrades is a project.
Fuel type and unit type: Gas, electric, and tankless differ substantially in equipment and installation work.
Code requirements: Expansion tanks, pans and drains, venting, combustion air, and strapping may be required and vary by locality.
Access: A heater in a tight attic, crawlspace, or closet costs more to remove and replace than one in an open garage.
Permits and inspection: Many jurisdictions require a permit for water heater replacement.
Disposal and emergency timing: Removing the old unit and after-hours service both add to the total.

More detail on how plumbing work is priced: Plumbing costs — what to expect.

Common questions

Hot water runs out after five minutes. Is the heater broken?: Not necessarily. Rapid loss of hot water often comes from sediment reducing usable capacity, a broken dip tube, a failed lower element on an electric unit, or a heater that's simply too small for current demand. A plumber can tell which.
Should I turn the temperature up?: Be careful. Higher settings cause scald injuries quickly, especially for children and older adults. Stay within the manufacturer's recommendation and address the underlying cause instead.
How long does a water heater last?: It varies with water quality, maintenance, and type. Once a storage unit reaches the later part of its expected life and needs a significant repair, replacement is often the better value — ask for both prices.
There's a little water under the heater. Can it wait?: Don't wait. A weeping tank can become a full failure, and tanks hold a lot of water. Have it assessed promptly.

This guide is general educational information, not a diagnosis of your specific situation. Plumbing codes, regulations, and licensing requirements vary by state and locality.