It hums but won't turn. What's happening?

The motor has power but the plate is jammed. Cut power at the breaker or unplug the unit, look for the obstruction with a flashlight, and use the manufacturer's hex wrench in the bottom socket if the manual describes it. Never reach in.

Is it safe to put ice or citrus peel through it to clean it?

Manufacturers differ, so check your manual. Neither substitutes for keeping grease, coffee grounds, and fibrous waste out in the first place — that's what causes the recurring clogs below the unit.

There's water in the cabinet. Where is it from?

Note the origin: the sink flange at the top, a side drain or dishwasher connection, or the bottom of the unit. Connections can often be repaired; a leak from the body of the disposal usually means replacement.

Drains & Sewers

Garbage Disposal Problems: Humming, Jammed, or Leaking

The disposal hums without turning, does nothing at all, backs up, or drips underneath.

A homeowner guide — what may be happening, and what to do next.

What's happening?

A disposal is a small electric motor spinning a plate with blunt impellers that force food waste against a grind ring. It has two protections built in: an overload switch that cuts power when the motor is stressed, and often a reset button on the underside.

The symptom tells you the category. A hum with no rotation means the motor has power but something is jamming the plate. Complete silence means power isn't reaching the motor — a tripped reset, a tripped breaker, a switch, or a failed motor. Draining problems usually mean the drain line beyond the unit, not the disposal. Water dripping underneath means a seal or a connection has failed, and that one causes cabinet damage if left.

Common signs

Symptoms homeowners notice

The unit hums but nothing grinds
Nothing happens when you switch it on
Water backs up in the sink when the disposal runs
Dripping or water stains in the cabinet beneath
Loud metallic rattling
A persistent smell from the unit
It shuts off partway through and needs resetting

Possible causes

From simple to more serious — not a diagnosis of your specific situation

A jam: Bone, fruit pit, cutlery, or fibrous waste blocking the impeller plate. Causes the classic hum.
A tripped overload reset: The unit protected itself; the reset button underneath needs pressing after clearing the cause.
A tripped breaker or a switch fault: No power reaching the unit at all.
A failed motor: End of service life, often after repeated overloads.
A blocked drain line: Backing up usually means the trap or branch line beyond the disposal, not the unit itself.
Failed seals or a corroded housing: Leaks from the bottom of the unit generally mean it needs replacing.
A loose sink flange or drain connection: A common source of leaks at the top or side rather than the bottom.
Grease and starch accumulation: Fats, coffee grounds, and starchy foods build up in the line below and cause repeat clogs.

How urgent is it?

Low — monitor and investigate

Rarely urgent — unless it's leaking under the sink, in which case water damage becomes the concern. Always treat the electrical and blade hazards seriously.

Low
Medium
High
Emergency

What you can safely check

Simple observations and low-risk checks. None of these require tools you don't have or work you aren't qualified for.

Switch the disposal off and, before doing anything else, unplug it or turn off its breaker. Never put a hand near the chamber with power available.
Shine a flashlight into the chamber from above and look for a visible object.
Check the reset button on the underside of the unit.
Check whether the breaker has tripped.
Look in the cabinet with a dry paper towel for moisture, and note where it's coming from — top flange, side connection, or bottom of the unit.
Check whether the sink drains when the disposal isn't running, which separates a drain problem from a disposal problem.

What not to do

These are the actions that turn a manageable problem into an expensive or dangerous one.

Avoid these

Never put your hand into the disposal chamber. Even switched off, the impellers and shredder ring cause serious cuts. If you must retrieve something visible, cut power first and use tongs.
Don't run it continuously to force a jam through; you'll burn out the motor.
Don't pour chemical drain openers into a disposal. They damage components and leave caustic water sitting against seals — and against whoever works on it next.
Don't work on the wiring, switch, or hardwired connection unless you're qualified; this combines water and electricity.
Don't ignore a leak under the sink — cabinet bases and subfloors fail quietly.
Don't put grease, coffee grounds, eggshells, fibrous vegetables, or bones down it as a habit; they cause the clogs that come back.

Can I fix this myself?

Safe to check

Observation and low-risk checks most homeowners can make.

Cutting power at the switch, plug, or breaker
Looking into the chamber with a flashlight
Pressing the reset button underneath
Checking for leaks with a dry towel and noting their origin
Testing whether the sink drains without the disposal running

Proceed with caution

Minor actions where instructions must be followed carefully.

Removing a clearly visible object with tongs, with power off at the breaker or unplugged
Using the manufacturer's supplied hex wrench in the bottom socket to free the plate, per the owner's manual, with power off

Call a professional

Regulated, hazardous, or specialized work. Don't attempt it.

Any electrical or hardwired connection work
Replacing the unit
Drain line clearing beyond the trap
Repairing leaks at the sink flange or drain connections

When to call a licensed plumber

Clear signals it's time for professional help

The unit is leaking from its body rather than a connection
It hums and the jam isn't visible or won't release
It's completely dead after checking the reset and the breaker
The sink backs up even when the disposal isn't running
You need it replaced, especially if it's hardwired
Anything about the wiring looks damaged or improvised

Not sure yet? Read our general guidance on when a plumber is needed.

Questions to ask your plumber

Worth covering before you authorize any work.

Before work starts

1Is this repairable, or is replacement the better value at this age?
2Is the problem the disposal or the drain line below it?
3Does the drain and trap arrangement under this sink need correcting?
4Does replacement here involve electrical work, and are you doing that or an electrician?
5Are you licensed to do this type of work in my area, and can I see your license number?
6Do you carry liability insurance and workers' compensation?
7Will you provide a written estimate before starting work?
8Is a diagnostic or trip fee charged, and is it applied to the repair if I go ahead?
9Does this work require a permit or an inspection?
10What warranty applies to the labor, and what warranty applies to the parts?

What could affect the cost?

We don't publish prices, because real quotes depend on your home, your area, and what's found on site. These are the variables that move the number.

Cost drivers

Repair vs. replacement: Clearing a jam is minor; a leaking or failed unit means a new disposal plus installation.
Unit quality: Disposals vary considerably in power, build, and warranty.
Electrical connection: A hardwired unit takes longer than a plug-in one and may involve an electrician.
Drain work: If the trap or branch line is blocked or incorrectly configured, that's separate work.
Plumbing corrections: Older or improvised under-sink configurations sometimes need rebuilding to work reliably.

More detail on how plumbing work is priced: Plumbing costs — what to expect.

Common questions

It hums but won't turn. What's happening?: The motor has power but the plate is jammed. Cut power at the breaker or unplug the unit, look for the obstruction with a flashlight, and use the manufacturer's hex wrench in the bottom socket if the manual describes it. Never reach in.
Is it safe to put ice or citrus peel through it to clean it?: Manufacturers differ, so check your manual. Neither substitutes for keeping grease, coffee grounds, and fibrous waste out in the first place — that's what causes the recurring clogs below the unit.
There's water in the cabinet. Where is it from?: Note the origin: the sink flange at the top, a side drain or dishwasher connection, or the bottom of the unit. Connections can often be repaired; a leak from the body of the disposal usually means replacement.

This guide is general educational information, not a diagnosis of your specific situation. Plumbing codes, regulations, and licensing requirements vary by state and locality.