Is a dripping faucet worth fixing right away?

It's not a safety issue, but a steady drip wastes a meaningful amount of water over a year and the leak generally gets worse rather than better. It's a good candidate for bundling with other small plumbing work.

Water is in the cabinet but the faucet doesn't drip. Why?

Most likely a supply connection, a weeping shut-off valve, or the drain and trap. Fill and release the sink without running the faucet — if water appears then, it's the drain side.

My faucets keep needing new cartridges. What's going on?

Repeated seal failures across a house often mean water pressure above the normal residential range, or heavy mineral content. Ask a plumber to measure your static pressure.

Faucets & Fixtures

Leaking Faucet: Drips, Seeps, and What They Mean

A dripping spout, water seeping around the handle or base, or moisture under the sink.

A homeowner guide — what may be happening, and what to do next.

What's happening?

A faucet's job is to hold back pressurized water and release it on demand. It does that with wearing parts: a cartridge, ceramic discs, a ball assembly, or older rubber washers, plus O-rings that seal the moving pieces. Those parts wear out — that's normal, and it's what most faucet leaks are.

Where the water appears tells you which part failed. A drip from the spout when everything is closed means the valve isn't sealing internally. Water around the handle or the base means an O-ring or a body seal. Water in the cabinet is a different matter entirely: that's usually a supply connection, a flexible line, a shut-off valve, or the drain — not the faucet's valve at all, and it's the one that causes real damage.

Common signs

Symptoms homeowners notice

A steady or intermittent drip from the spout with the handles closed
Water pooling around the base of the faucet on the counter
Water seeping from under or around a handle when in use
Moisture, staining, or swelling in the cabinet below
A handle that's stiff, loose, or has to be held in a certain position
Squealing or chattering when the faucet is opened

Possible causes

From simple to more serious — not a diagnosis of your specific situation

A worn cartridge or valve seat: The usual reason a spout drips. Cartridges are wearing parts with a finite life.
Failed O-rings or seals: Causes leaks at the handle or base rather than the spout.
Mineral scale: Scale on sealing surfaces prevents a clean shut-off even with new parts.
High water pressure: Pressure above the normal residential range shortens the life of every seal in the house.
A failing supply connector: Flexible supply lines age and can leak or, occasionally, fail suddenly. A frequent cause of under-sink water.
A weeping shut-off valve: Old angle stops often seep at the packing nut or the body.
A loose mounting: A faucet that moves lets water past the deck seal onto the counter and into the cabinet.
A drain or trap leak: Water in the cabinet is often the drain, not the faucet. Worth distinguishing before buying parts.

How urgent is it?

Low — monitor and investigate

A dripping spout is an annoyance and a steady waste of water. Water under the sink is more serious — cabinet and subfloor damage accumulates quietly.

Low
Medium
High
Emergency

What you can safely check

Simple observations and low-risk checks. None of these require tools you don't have or work you aren't qualified for.

Determine exactly where the water appears: spout, handle, base, or cabinet. This is the whole diagnosis.
Dry everything, then run the faucet and watch with a flashlight to see where water re-emerges.
Wipe the supply lines and shut-off valves with a dry paper towel and check for dampness.
Fill the sink and release it to see whether the cabinet leak is actually the drain.
Check whether the faucet moves when you use the handle.
Note the faucet brand and model if you can find it — it determines parts availability.
Test the fixture's shut-off valves to confirm they actually close.

What not to do

These are the actions that turn a manageable problem into an expensive or dangerous one.

Avoid these

Don't over-tighten handles or packing nuts to stop a drip. It crushes seals and cracks parts, turning a small repair into a bigger one.
Don't force a seized shut-off valve. Old valves snap, and then you have an uncontrolled leak.
Don't use a plumbing wrench on a decorative finish without protecting it; the scratches are permanent.
Don't leave water in a cabinet and hope it dries. Particleboard and subfloor fail from below where you won't see it.
Don't attempt to replace a shut-off valve or solder on supply piping yourself.
Don't wrap tape around a leaking joint and call it fixed.

Can I fix this myself?

Safe to check

Observation and low-risk checks most homeowners can make.

Identifying exactly where the water appears
Drying and re-testing with a flashlight
Checking supply lines and valves with a dry towel
Distinguishing a drain leak from a faucet leak
Noting the faucet brand and model

Proceed with caution

Minor actions where instructions must be followed carefully.

Cleaning or replacing an aerator
Shutting off the fixture's supply valve, if it turns easily
Replacing a cartridge on a common faucet using the manufacturer's parts and instructions, with the water off

Call a professional

Regulated, hazardous, or specialized work. Don't attempt it.

Replacing shut-off valves and any soldering or supply pipe work
Tub and shower valve repairs behind tile or walls
Full faucet replacement where connections are corroded
Any repair where the cabinet or floor has water damage

When to call a licensed plumber

Clear signals it's time for professional help

The leak is under the sink rather than at the faucet
The shut-off valve won't close, or it weeps
The leak continues after the obvious wearing parts have been replaced
Parts for the faucet are unavailable or it needs replacing
The cabinet base or floor is already damaged
You suspect high water pressure is causing repeated seal failures

Not sure yet? Read our general guidance on when a plumber is needed.

Questions to ask your plumber

Worth covering before you authorize any work.

Before work starts

1Which part has failed, and is repair or replacement the better value here?
2Should the shut-off valves and flexible supply lines be replaced while you're here?
3What is my water pressure, and could it be shortening the life of these parts?
4Are manufacturer parts available for this faucet?
5Is there any damage under the sink I should have looked at?
6Are you licensed to do this type of work in my area, and can I see your license number?
7Do you carry liability insurance and workers' compensation?
8Will you provide a written estimate before starting work?
9Is a diagnostic or trip fee charged, and is it applied to the repair if I go ahead?
10Does this work require a permit or an inspection?
11What warranty applies to the labor, and what warranty applies to the parts?

What could affect the cost?

We don't publish prices, because real quotes depend on your home, your area, and what's found on site. These are the variables that move the number.

Cost drivers

Repair vs. replacement: A cartridge is a small job; a new faucet with new supply lines and valves is a larger one.
Faucet type and brand: Parts availability and price vary widely, and some specialty fixtures need ordered components.
Valve and supply line condition: Seized stops or aged connectors add work — and are worth doing while access is open.
Access: Working in a tight cabinet, or on a wall-mounted or tub-and-shower valve behind tile, takes far longer.
Damage repair: A rotted cabinet base or subfloor is separate carpentry work.
Number of fixtures: Servicing several fixtures on one visit lowers the cost per fixture.

More detail on how plumbing work is priced: Plumbing costs — what to expect.

Common questions

Is a dripping faucet worth fixing right away?: It's not a safety issue, but a steady drip wastes a meaningful amount of water over a year and the leak generally gets worse rather than better. It's a good candidate for bundling with other small plumbing work.
Water is in the cabinet but the faucet doesn't drip. Why?: Most likely a supply connection, a weeping shut-off valve, or the drain and trap. Fill and release the sink without running the faucet — if water appears then, it's the drain side.
My faucets keep needing new cartridges. What's going on?: Repeated seal failures across a house often mean water pressure above the normal residential range, or heavy mineral content. Ask a plumber to measure your static pressure.

This guide is general educational information, not a diagnosis of your specific situation. Plumbing codes, regulations, and licensing requirements vary by state and locality.